Hyaluronic acid is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics as a moisture booster. But how good are serums really and do they deliver what they promise? “Ökotest” took a closer look at 20 products – with surprising results.
Of all products, the most expensive received only an “unsatisfactory” rating from the testers: The "Liftactiv Surpreme H.A. Epidermic Filler Serum" from Vichy (approx. 35 euros per 30 ml) fails along with another hyaluronic serum in "Ökotest", the reason: In the laboratory halogen-organic compounds and PEG compounds were found – additives that are suspected of causing allergies and skin irritations and make the skin more permeable to foreign substances.
Anti aging? Hyaluron serum in the "Ökotest"
Also the advertising promises – "progressive Filling effect" and "actively reduced signs of skin aging" – holds "Ökotest" for üexaggerated, it says in the report. The explanation: "(.) in order to be able to reduce wrinkles really effectively, the product would have to act deeper than in the uppermost skin layer. However, cosmetics are generally not allowed to do this, because otherwise they cross the line into pharmaceuticals;
Rejuvenation effects hardly detectable
The testers awarded the top rating of "very good" to a total of only five products: "They do not contain any questionable ingredients and do not make any exaggerated promises regarding rejuvenation effects", they said. The serums do not promise too much either, but merely promise the disappearance of superficial dryness spots and a fresher and smoother complexion. The products tested included items from the well-known brands "Alterra", "Judith Williams" and "L’Oréal".
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid, also known simply as hyaluron, is actually a fluid produced naturally in the body. The Munich dermatologist Dr. Miriam Rehbein explains to Tikbow: "Hyaluronic acid is a main component of the human connective tissue. It has the ability to bind large amounts of water, which is why it is crucial for the moisture content of our skin. With age, however, the production of the body’s own hyaluronic acid decreases, and the skin loses its firmness and wrinkles become more visible. If you want to help out here, you can use hyaluron from the laboratory: The substance is either extracted from cock’s milk or produced biotechnically as an extract from streptococcus cultures.