Creating a seating area in the garden with windbreaks is the only way to quietly enjoy a cup of coffee outside in the fresh air. However, you should know that each garden windbreak differs in design and functionality, and one may be more suitable for a particular environment than the other. However, there are some proven methods to add windbreaks to your backyard seating area. In this article you will learn what they are and how to find among them the best solution for your garden.
Table of Contents
- Seat in the garden with windbreak: what you should pay attention to.
- Tips on how to create windbreaks for your garden
- Creating a microclimate for relaxing in a wind garden
- Filtering the wind in your garden for protection
- Creating garden rooms in your yard
- Creating a sunken garden for protection from the wind on the patio
- Sitting area in the garden with windbreaks: choose trees and shrubs
Seating in the garden with windbreaks: what you should consider
Carefully examine the site to determine the type of windbreak and the size and placement needed to provide protection.
Type: To be effective, windbreaks should be semi-permeable and ideally filter 50-60% of the wind to reduce its force. Solid barriers are unsuitable as they create damaging wind vortices on both sides.
For the terrace and garden windbreaks can be living or artificial. Living windbreaks made of planted trees and shrubs are the most attractive and long-lasting, but artificial ones provide instant protection. Artificial windbreaks can be used alone or in combination with living windbreaks to provide protection until they become established.
Solid fencing is not suitable for slowing wind, but any fence with 50-60% air permeability, such as fencing made of willow or hazel, is effective. Woven or extruded plastic netting is available for amateur gardeners, but screens over 5 feet may require professional high performance plastic tape such as “Paraweb”.
Size: a windbreak reduces the wind on its leeward side by ten times its strength. The windbreak should be wider than the area to be protected or extended on the sides to prevent wind from entering over the sides.
Positioning: Generally, windbreaks should face the prevailing winds, but in some situations priority may be given to protection from damaging cold north and east winds.
The location of the terrain (topography) affects the wind direction and should be taken into account. On hilly sites, protection from several sides may be required, as the wind can move up the hill and cause gusts on the sides as well. Wind can also be directed through depressions, rows of trees or tall buildings, creating what is called a “wind tunnel.”
Tips on how to create windbreaks for your garden
Create a microclimate for relaxing in a wind garden.
See if you can find parts of the garden, such as in the lee of the house or garden shed or behind hedges, that already have a warmer “microclimate”. They will be protected from the prevailing winds. If everything is exposed to the full force of the wind, you should create a sheltered area in your garden. Place a garden bench where you can enjoy your morning coffee in peace.
Filter the wind in the garden for protection
Filter the wind without completely obscuring your view by using trees, hedges, plantings or open fencing. But be careful: solid walls deflect wind and create eddies that can exacerbate the problem.
In the most exposed areas, you can erect a temporary windbreak fence to help the hedge settle. In gardens where the wind blows, plant extremely hardy trees and hedges such as hawthorn and pines.
Create garden rooms in your yard
Use hedges and fences to divide your wind garden into different “rooms.” Create shelters for different seating areas in the garden, depending on which direction the wind is blowing.
Create a sunken garden to shelter from the wind on the patio.
You can also create a special and intimate space by digging into the ground and creating a sunken garden that is also protected from the wind by the different levels.
Sitting area in the garden with windbreaks: choose trees and shrubs.
Planting and maintaining living windbreaks requires site preparation. Deciduous shrubs and trees are best planted from fall to early spring, evergreens in spring. Purchase small, young plants that usually establish well. Plant shrubs and trees relatively close together: A distance of 30 to 90 inches between most plants in a row is appropriate.
In deep shelterbelts, plant the tallest trees in the center and shorter trees or shrubs at the front and back. Keep new plantings well mulched, watered, and weeded until established. Tree lines and hedges can be pruned annually to maintain their density.
Selecting plants for living windbreaks
Deciduous plants, whether rows of trees or clipped hedges, create permeable barriers suitable for slowing wind speeds. Here are a few you might choose:
Trees: field maple, black elder, Norway maple, silver maple, sycamore, poplar, white willow, white elm, mountain ash, American linden, small-leaved linden, Siberian elm.
Shrubs: Canadian blueberry, cornelian cherry, hazelnut, medium hawthorn, blackberry, elderberry, lilac, berberis, dog rose, Scottish rose, tamarisk.
Evergreen hedges can provide good shelter in the garden all year round. Note, however, that a dense row of evergreen trees can act like a dense barrier and cause problems with wind turbulence. Alternate rows of evergreens and deciduous plants in the shelterbelt. Here are some evergreens to consider:
Trees: incense cedar, Rocky Mountain juniper, red spruce, coast pine, eastern cedar.
Shrubs: rabbitbrush, Chilean bamboo, common juniper.